SEZANNE

離開東京前，專登安排咗壓軸嗰餐去試被選為亞洲五十最佳餐廳之一嘅「Sézanne」。網上訂座簡易快捷，冇諗到啱啱攞埋第三粒星嘅法國菜會咁易訂。四季酒店地方大之餘，四周圍都係空間，可稱得上為無形嘅氣勢，不過由於指示唔係咁清晰，對細佬黎講就有少少似個迷宮，要搵職員帶路先搵到西餐廳。光線及色調同樣柔和嘅用餐大堂好似一個大客廳咁，部份椅櫈為長梳化，感覺溫馨舒適。餐桌上只擺有麵包碟，把牛油刀剛好掛喺碟邊，設計獨特且實用。厚本酒牌實在太多選擇，眼見其中有個極罕有嘅香檳配對套餐「Champagne Pairing」（70,000円/位），細問下得知當晚嘅款式中不乏自己嘅心頭好，可以一次過對比唔同香檳品牌咁難得，所以唔洗多諗即決意一試！駐場不同國籍嘅服務生均年輕有禮，唯一爛飲嘅小肥覺得侍酒師斟酒時有啲孤寒囉，唔知讀者們睇完相相後有冇同感呢？！廚師發辦晚餐共有兩款可選，分別為「Menu Sézanne」（40,000円/位）及「Menu de Saison」（80,000円/位），雙倍價錢嘅後者比前者多咗上海大閘蟹同白松露兩樣食材。訂位時早已揀好咗「Menu Sézanne」，服務生話由於當晚有足夠嘅貨量可供二人臨時改變主意，所以就攞咗啲大閘蟹出黎騷quali！遇著蟹后表妹都算佢唔好采，出門前一星期啱啱先喺香港食埋最後一水大閘蟹公（早已過咗食乸嘅時間！），餐廳居然好自豪地介紹啲由上海空運到日本嘅大閘蟹全部係乸，仲要40,000円/位喎，不如咁講，或許對日本人黎講係極品吧！可能想貴客們細心聽服務生為每道菜作出嘅簡介，日英對照嘅多道菜餐單要埋咗單先有得睇。48 Month Aged Comté Cheese Gougère; Pacific Saury with Caramelized Onions and Green Olives; Duck Foie Gras with Soy Sauce and Dates：晚餐正式以三色前菜作序。應建議由碟嘅中間食出去，微微熱熱地嘅芝士波波外鬆芝咸香；銀光閃閃件節令秋刀橄欖洋蔥餅就剛巧相反地鮮甜清涼；呈彎月形嗰件肝醬紅棗撻竟然又羶又酸，甚為失色！Koshihikari Rice and White Miso Sourdough with Brittany Butter：餐店自家焗製嘅白麵豉酸種麵包皮層香脆暖手，包心軟熟，塗上法國牛油即倍添香滑。Soft Shell Turtle from Hiroshima with “Fines Herbes”：熱食第一環乃一小杯水魚湯，實意想不到！白色嘅泡泡飲落只有輕柔嘅忌廉香，完全唔似中式嘅水魚湯；暗藏於泡底有兩件源自廣島嘅水魚裙邊同水魚肉，食落都好爽潤同爽嫩，但就未至於值得讚嘅程度。Kasugodai with Bafun Sea Urchin and Mitsuba：接著嘅春子鯛魚有別於一般刺身，因為師傅喺生魚肉條修長嘅骨位釀入咗馬糞海膽，締造出橙亮鮮明嘅視覺效果嘅同時，魚生組合嘅質感及甜美更顯細膩，頂面再以三つ葉及魚籽醬點醊，足以提升清新與鮮味，！Jelly Fish “Niçoise” with Olives and Anchovies：據意日混血嘅Joseph哥哥所講，此味海月水母有個辣勁。。。小杯入面原來並冇液體，一絲絲透明嘅就係水母絲，墊底仲有鯷魚、橄欖、蕃茄、甜椒等，撈埋奶黃色嘅尼斯沙律醬即變成一道沙律。兩老表都覺得依杯水母沙律一啲都唔辣，反而個味好似榨菜咁咸咸酸酸，唔細心聽介紹真係未必會留意啲水母，啲配料仲好似早一日用剩嘅食材切成粒粒咁，睇到都唔開胃呀！Fugu from Yamaguchi Prefecture, Cooked on the Bone with “Fugu Shirako” and Roasted Kagani Sauce：喺日本食法國大餐似乎要食多幾舊魚，當中賣相看似平平無奇嘅原來係源自山口縣嘅河豚；兩口子一聽到「河豚」個名淨係諗起食咗如果中毒個廚師要切腹，深覺喺日本五星級酒店煮嘅雞泡魚應該冇時掛，幾大就幾大啦！印象中雞泡魚脹卜卜，仲以為魚魚只係得層皮包住啲毒氣，睇唔出可以切得出如此厚身嘅魚肉，肉質更加係爽彈油潤，沾點碟上嘅燒毛蟹汁尤其鮮美；菜式美中不足就係啲白子超咸同偏硬。Ariakeyama Farm’s Bizen Shamo Poached in Yellow Wine：轉由台籍哥哥展示嘅雞雞原來已經醃浸咗喺法國黃酒內七日，據悉師傅嘅靈感黎自上海菜，咦，咁咪即係醉雞？！平心而論，洋溢著濃郁酒香嘅雞胸肉好腍同好柔軟，一啲都唔嚡，滑滑嘅雞皮仲彈彈地添，問題出現喺香檳配對，因為食完醉雞之後飲嗰啖香檳堅苦同怪，出哂事喎，估計設計師自己根本冇試過囉！Ankimo with Sauternes Consommé and Foie Gras Fat：鮟鱇魚肝用咗法國甜酒醃咗一日，淋上少少鵝肝肥油輕輕蒸煮就食得。圓圓一餅鮟鱇魚肝滑溜非常，而且香甜醇美，墊底有少少自家製意粉索盡甜酒同魚肝嘅精華，份量剛剛好唔會好溜滯。Marinated Ikura with Cucumbers and Horseradish：食咗咁多道餸，只有一個通哂窿窿嘅碟盤最特別出眾，咁隆重出場相信係廚師最感自豪嘅重頭戲！碟邊啲細窿仔嘅形狀好襯晶瑩剔透嘅三文魚籽，閃亮嘅外觀實在吸睛！三文魚籽於口中爆裂時散發出動人心絃嘅鮮濃，完全唔咸唔腥，墊底有清甜又清爽嘅青瓜絲連青瓜啫喱，混入少量嘅辣根成功刺激嗅覺，口感豐富嘅組合極其清新，同杯香檳仲好夾添，係成餐飯最完整嘅一環！Megumi Gamo from Aichi with Kintoki Carrot from Kyoto and “Sauce Meurette”：食完上海醉雞後，有邊個會估到主菜竟然係北京填鴨呢？！莫非大廚最愛食中菜？唔知係專登定無意啦，「雞同鴨講」均由笑容滿面嘅台籍哥哥作出簡介。愛知縣產嘅鴨鴨經過七天熟成，第一部曲先上厚切嘅鴨胸，薄薄嘅鴨皮十分酥脆，皮下唔見有任何脂肪，粉嫩嘅鴨肉鬆潤多汁；配菜中有兩件名叫「金時人參」嘅京都產紅蘿蔔，食落似木瓜多過紅蘿蔔，清甜爽腍。簡單啲講，主菜第二節其實係一碗迷你鴨髀肉湯意粉！小杯中奶黃色嘅鴨湯勁羶且油，入面呈丸子狀嘅意粉粒粒硬實冇彈性，啲鴨髀肉又嚡又老，同個鴨胸簡直係差天同地，嗰陣羶味仲糟蹋埋杯香檳，一個字講哂：「劣」！轉入甜品環節時，首席侍酒師攞出超級巨型嘅甜酒「Henri Giraud Ratafia　Champenois Solera 1990-2016」，即場示範用品牌提供嘅吸量管抽出酒酒，睇頭十足！可能味蕾仍被鴨湯個羶味影響，個人覺得陳年甜酒微甜得黎有少少俗套，唔得細緻。Meyer Lemon from Kochi with Lemon Thyme：由檸檬同柑橘混種而成嘅梅爾檸檬撻食到小肥滮哂眼水，可想而知有幾酸！食完再飲啖甜酒諗住可以甜返個口啦，點知啖酒變得苦澀不堪，餐酒配對繼續失誤，侍酒師嘅表現直頭肥哂佬！Piedmont Hazelnut Soufflé with Fig Jam Ice-Cream：榛子梳乎厘外皮堅挺心鬆軟，簡單加配清涼嘅雲尼拿雪糕及潤甜嘅無花果醬，足以添上豐沛嘅口感，不過表妹講得啱，兩款甜品都顯示唔出星級嘅廚藝或其特別之處。Mignardises：結尾點咗杯特濃咖啡幫助消化，一齊上嘅瑪德蓮蛋糕仔正正常常，反而個布朗尼蛋糕上層鬆柔，下層半脆，個朱古力味香醇可口，更為討好。東京米芝蓮三星名店「Sézanne」環境高雅，年輕嘅服務生們專業有禮。XO仔主要失望在喺日本食星級法國菜時，竟然某幾刻以為自己食緊中餐，唔係話有中菜嘅元素唔好，只係要適可而止；於中港嘅蟹季後推薦貴客加錢品嚐過時已久嘅大閘蟹乸，反而暴露咗廚師對食材嘅認知不足，弄巧反拙！此外，香檳配對套餐更加係有暴殄天物之嫌，明顯負責餐飲嘅代表冇乜溝通，各有各玩，即使侍酒師嚴選出多款名貴佳釀，美酒卻未能與廚師嘅傑作達成最基本嘅和諧協調，真心想問米芝蓮評審係點樣俾得落啲星星架？！請恕小弟直言，平均消費十四萬円一個人喎，既然食唔到出烹飪團隊嘅誠意，冇可能收貨囉！…Read More

Incredible experience having the autumn tasting menu at SÉZANNE in Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo. It is definitely going to be a hard one to beat and takes our current top spot on our trip of Tokyo! This was one of the best meals we have had in a while.I love the attention to detail and thoughtful gestures, from the descriptions of each course by the staff to the beautiful serveware and cutlery used. Every server in the team was so friendly that it created a casual atmosphere.Drawing from his extensive experience in Hong Kong, Executive Chef Daniel Calvert skillfully infuses his menu with elements inspired by Asian cuisine. One remarkable dish he excelled at was the marinated pigeon. Through utilising yellow wine, he achieved a delicate flavour profile that enhances the tender texture of the pigeon meat.It's a tough decision to single out just one favourite dish, but let me direct your attention to the Shiranuka venison. Look at the pink venison meat and that crispy skin, matched perfectly with the pepper sauce. It was definitely a highlight!From the starter to dessert, all the food tasted as good as it looked. It was a well-balanced meal with such sincere and kind service to match. This meal will no doubt remain as one of my core memories for years to come.…Read More